Important Carlo Giuliano Jewelry at Brunk Auctions
*** Catalog Coming Soon***
Carlo Giuliano Emerald and Enamel Bracelet in Original Case
Regal. Historic. Affordable. Brunk Auctions is honored to present museum-quality works by Carlo Giuliano and other historical jewelers in our upcoming September 3 Jewelry Auction. This collection comes to Brunk Auctions from the estate of Tessa Ader, the English-born Charlottesville, Virginia, philanthropist who in 2021 donated $50 million to the University of Virginia to fund the building of a performing arts center. Tessa was, in her own right, a highly regarded enamelist and jewelry designer whose work was exhibited at juried Guild shows in Florida and Japan; the auction will feature a number of pieces she made.
Georgian Aquamarine Cannetille Suite in Original Fitted Leather Case
Carlo Giuliano Emerald and Enamel Bracelet in Original Case
Carlo Giuliano Renaissance Revival Enamel, Diamond and Gem Set Pendant
Giuliano was renowned for his intricate enamel work and Renaissance Revival motifs, drawing inspiration from classical art and architecture. His pieces utilized champlevé and cloisonné techniques to create rich, polychromatic designs, often pairing bold enamel colors with precious gemstones such as rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. His meticulous attention to detail, particularly in granulation and finely chased gold, established him as one of the finest Victorian Revivalist jewelers.
After establishing his Frith Street workshop around 1860, Giuliano’s work was initially retailed through prestigious firms such as Hunt & Roskell, C.F. Hancock, and Robert Phillips until he opened his own shop in 1874. His clientele included royalty, notably Queen Victoria, as well as several Pre-Raphaelite artists. His jewelry can be seen in the paintings of Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema, Sir Edward Poynter, and Sir Edward Burne-Jones.
Rather than merely copying historical styles, Giuliano reinterpreted Renaissance techniques at a level of craftsmanship that rivaled the originals. Today, his work is held in major museum collections, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Victoria and Albert Museum, the British Museum, and the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum.
Notably, several pieces in this collection retain their original custom gilt-embossed leather and velvet-lined cases.
Carlo Giuliano Emerald and Enamel Bracelet in Original Case
circa 1874, round faceted emerald, eight pear shape faceted rubies and blue sapphires, black and white enameled openwork scroll panels, signed “CG”, for Carlo Giuliano, in fitted leather C. Giuliano London case.
Note: for a related bracelet by Carlo Giuliano, see Christies Online, “Jewels Online, The London Edit”, June 15, 2023, lot 85.
$20,000-$30,000
Carlo & Arthur Giuliano Renaissance Revival Enamel, Diamond, Pearl Necklace in Original Case
circa 1890, fringe design, five openwork scroll drop panels,15 old cut diamonds, 15 suspending pearls, blue and white piqué enamel, flanked by graduated openwork looped scroll links, marked “C&AG”, in a fitted leather C & A Giuliano 115 Piccadilly London box
Note: For a necklace by Giuliano with similarly designed fringe panels, see Christie’s, Geneva, “Magnificent Jewels,” November 16, 2005, Lot 183
$10,000-$15,000
Georgian Aquamarine Cannetille Suite in Original Fitted Leather Case
comprising: intricate filigree, necklace, eight oval mixed cut aquamarines, 13.0mm wide mesh chain; removable pendant brooch, nine oval mixed cut aquamarines, one round mixed cut aquamarine; in addition, one brooch, one oval mixed cut aquamarine, aquamarines are gold backed; in fitted custom satin lined leather case
$6,000-$9,000
Carlo Giuliano Renaissance Revival Enamel, Diamond and Gem Set Pendant
central round cut pale yellow citrine, border of rose cut diamonds, faceted pale yellow citrine drop briolette, green cloisonné enamel leaf motif, tapering bale decorated with delicate beadwork, signed “CG”, for Carlo Giuliano
$5,000-$7,000
Ruby, Diamond and Enamel Holbeinesque Pendant
old cut rubies and diamonds, multi color enameling, detailed engraving on back, fancy link chain, 15 in. chain length, 3 in. drop length, with Leighton 7-11 Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly antique case
$4,000-$6,000
Garrard & Co. Amethyst Parure in Custom Leather Case
comprising: necklace, oval and pear faceted amethyst, old cut diamonds, two rope chains; chandelier earrings, pear and round faceted amethyst, old cut diamonds, clip on backs; drop pendant, oval and pear faceted amethyst, old cut diamonds; brooch, oval faceted amethyst, old cut diamonds; two bracelets that can be attached to the necklace as extender attachments, oval faceted amethyst, old cut diamonds, two rope chains; in fitted Garrard & Co LTD leather case
$4,000-$6,000
Peridot Diamond with Pearl Piqué Enamel Brooch Pendant
openwork scroll, central oval faceted peridot, nine old cut diamonds, one faceted briolette peridot suspending, three white pearls, red, blue and white piqué enamel, removable bar pin on back, in fitted leather case
$2,000-$4,000
Victorian Enamel Holbeinesque Locket with Diamonds and Pearl
red, green, and blue champlevé enamel, old faceted diamonds, pearl drop, glazed locket compartment
$3,000-$5,000
Renaissance Revival Amethyst, Pearl and Enamel Holbeinesque Pendant
oval faceted amethyst, pearls, red, green, black, and blue champlevé enamel, detailed engraving at the back
$3,000-$5,000
World-Class Consignments and Exceptional Results